When Chestnuts Mean Autumn
Since early October, chestnut things start popping up everywhere — cakes in café cases, kuri lattes on chalkboards, even convenience-store puddings with tiny chestnut crowns. After a summer that feels endless, these first kuri (chestnut) sightings are my quiet alarm clock for autumn.
And in Gifu, there’s one treat that says “fall” more clearly than any calendar: kurikinton.
When I first heard the word, I thought of the golden New Year’s dish — sweet potato paste with candied chestnuts, shiny like coins for good luck. That’s the osechi version (栗金団), the one you see every January across Japan.
But here in Gifu, kurikinton means something else entirely: just chestnuts and sugar, shaped warm in a tea cloth, soft in your hand, and gone in two or three bites.
The same word, two different sweets — and somehow both tell a story about Japan’s love of the seasons.
Two Kurikintons, Two Traditions
1. Osechi Kurikinton — 栗金団
The New Year version mixes mashed sweet potato with candied chestnuts (kuri no kanroni). Its brilliant yellow is sometimes enhanced with gardenia pods (kuchinashi) to glow like gold — a color symbolizing prosperity and “piling up” fortune as the year turns.
You’ll find it in lacquered osechi boxes from Hokkaidō to Kyūshū each January. It’s festive, sweet, and meant to shine.
2. Gifu’s Autumn Kurikinton — 栗きんとん
Gifu’s kurikinton belongs to fall, not New Year. It’s born when the first chestnuts are harvested. They’re steamed, peeled, sieved, and sweetened just enough — no sweet potato, no syrup, nothing extra.
Each portion is wrapped and shaped in a tea cloth (chakin-shibori), giving it that rustic chestnut mound shape you see in showcases. Because it’s made with almost nothing but chestnut, the taste is gentle and deep — earthy at first, then lightly sweet.
Shops make small batches each morning, often closing when they sell out. Eat it with hot green tea or hojicha, and you’ll understand why Gifu keeps the recipe short.
Why Here? Why Gifu?
East Gifu — the Tōnō region around Nakatsugawa and Ena — is chestnut country. The hills are full of nihon-guri, Japanese chestnuts known for their rich flavor.
During the Edo period, the Nakasendō highway ran right through these post towns. Travelers stopped for tea and a small sweet; local confectioners had fresh chestnuts and the skill to turn a humble ingredient into something refined. Over time, this simple recipe and the region’s identity fused into one.
Locals proudly call Nakatsugawa the “birthplace of kurikinton.” There’s even a stone monument in front of JR Nakatsugawa Station marking the claim. Whether legend or fact, the pride is real — and the rivalry between shops is friendly but serious.
Famous Names and Local Pride
If you mention kurikinton in Gifu, two names always come first:
- Kawakamiya (川上屋) — known for its smooth, balanced texture.
- Suya (すや) — slightly grainier, with a more roasted aroma.
Both are over a century old, and locals debate which version is best every autumn.
You’ll also find small family-run shops in Ena, Gujō, and Nakatsugawa that work directly with nearby growers, crafting chestnut sweets that taste subtly different depending on the soil and the year’s weather.
There’s even a “Kurikinton Meguri” sampler box that lets you taste several makers at once — a delicious way to learn how much personality two ingredients can have.
Technique Over Recipe
Gifu’s kurikinton depends more on timing and touch than a long recipe. Chestnuts are delicate — too much sugar hides their flavor, too much mashing ruins the texture.
Each maker has their own balance: some leave a faint grain, others chase a silk-smooth finish. Watching a confectioner wrap the warm mash in a tea cloth is mesmerizing — twist, press, release — a tiny act of care repeated hundreds of times a day.
Because it contains no preservatives, kurikinton is a fresh sweet, best within 48–72 hours. Its short life is part of its charm: it exists because autumn does, and then it’s gone.
How to Enjoy It
Pairing: hot sencha, matcha, or hojicha brings out the nutty aroma. A mild-roast coffee works too.
Storage: most are best eaten the same day or within two days; check the shop’s label.
Season: late September – early November is prime. Some open sales as early as September 1 depending on the harvest.
If you can visit Gifu in that window, you’ll find shop windows glowing with chestnut browns and golden yellows — the edible calendar of autumn.
Beyond the Classic
Purists stay loyal to the two-ingredient version, but Gifu’s creativity doesn’t stop there.
You’ll find:
- Kurikinton monaka — chestnut paste between crisp wafers.
- Kurikinton dorayaki — folded into soft pancakes.
- Kurikinton parfaits or soft-serve — the modern café twist.
These keep the chestnut spirit alive even as trends change. Still, locals will tell you: if the chestnut’s aroma fades, it’s no longer kurikinton.
Language Corner — Talking About Kurikinton in Japanese
Here are a few phrases if you want to buy or chat about kurikinton in Japan:
| Japanese | Romaji | English |
|---|---|---|
| 栗きんとんをください。 | Kurikinton o kudasai. | One kurikinton, please. |
| どこのお店の栗きんとんですか？ | Doko no omise no kurikinton desu ka? | Which shop’s kurikinton is this? |
| いつまで販売していますか？ | Itsu made hanbai shiteimasu ka? | Until when is it sold? |
| おいしいですね。栗の味が濃いです。 | Oishii desu ne. Kuri no aji ga koi desu. | It’s delicious — very chestnut-rich. |
Culture in a Bite
Seen from far away, kurikinton is just chestnut and sugar.
But up close, it holds so many Japanese ideas:
- Seasonality (旬 shun) — made only when chestnuts are at their best.
- Omotenashi (おもてなし) — offered with tea to welcome guests.
- Omiyage culture — the autumn souvenir to bring from Tōnō.
- Regional meibutsu (名物) — a specialty that ties flavor to place.
I love that Japan lets food be temporary. Kurikinton isn’t designed to last; it’s designed to remind you that seasons move forward, gently and inevitably.
Personal Reflection
The first time I tasted Gifu’s kurikinton was on a cool morning in Nakatsugawa. The shop was tiny, the air smelled of roasted chestnuts, and the owner handed me one wrapped in paper like a gift.
It was warm, soft, and quietly sweet — the kind of flavor that doesn’t shout but lingers. I remember thinking, this tastes like the exact moment summer ends.
Now, each year, I wait for that flavor. When cafés start serving kuri lattes and wagashi counters display those pale golden mounds, I know autumn has finally arrived.
📍 Visiting Tips
- Best season: Late September – early November.
- Where: Nakatsugawa & Ena (Tōnō region, Gifu Prefecture).
- How to explore: Try the Kuri Kinton Meguri sampler or visit both Kawakamiya & Suya to compare textures.
- Getting there: 1 hr from Nagoya by JR Chūō Line to Nakatsugawa Station.
Quick Guide
| Term | Meaning |
|---|---|
| 栗 (Kuri) | Chestnut |
| 栗きんとん (Kurikinton) | Gifu’s fall chestnut + sugar sweet |
| 栗金団 (Kurikinton) | New Year’s sweet-potato + candied chestnut mash |
| 茶巾絞り (Chakin-shibori) | Tea-cloth shaping technique |
| 東濃 (Tōnō) | East Gifu region — chestnut heartland |